How We Build a Repli-Tub
Every Repli-Tub that leaves our shop in Scranton, Pennsylvania, has been touched by our team: drilled, fitted, corrected, and tested before it’s anywhere near a shipping truck. This page walks you through exactly what we do to each tub and why it matters for your restoration.
There are plenty of places to buy a replacement Jeep body. Most of them will ship you a raw stamping and leave you to figure out why nothing lines up. We don’t do that. When your Repli-Tub arrives, the work is done.
Choose Your Model
Not sure where to start? Pick your Jeep below to see the tub we build for it. Every model gets the build process described on this page; the details just change by model.
Flat Fender Models
Round-Fender CJ & Military
US-Assembled — Built From Scratch in Pennsylvania
The Build Process
1. Every Tub Starts Upside Down
The first thing that happens when a tub comes into our shop is that it goes on the table inverted. Working upside down isn’t an accident; it’s the only way to correctly locate and install all of the mounting hardware on the underside before anything else.
We use jigs that map every mounting location on the underside of the tub to ensure each hole is drilled in exactly the right position. This is what guarantees the tub will bolt to an original, unmodified chassis without shimming, slotting, or guesswork.
2. Crush Sleeves in Every Hat Channel
This is one of the details that separates a Repli-Tub from everything else on the market, and it’s something most buyers don’t know to ask about until they’ve already dealt with the problem on a cheaper tub.
The hat channels on the floor of a Jeep tub are filled with wood. On original bodies, and on every Philippine-made replica that ships without modification, that wood shrinks over time. The bolts loosen. The floor flexes. You’re re-torquing fasteners on a Jeep that should be done.
On every Repli-Tub, we install a welded-in crush sleeve in each hat channel hole. The holes are drilled to the correct diameter, 3/8″, and the crush sleeve carries the clamping load directly. You can torque those bolts as tight as you want. They won’t loosen.
This applies to all flat fender models: MB, GPW, M38, CJ2A, CJ3A, and CJ3B.
3. Correcting the Philippine Bodies
Some of our Repli-Tubs begin as Philippine-made replica stampings, a common starting point in the industry. The difference is what happens next.
Philippine bodies ship with a consistent set of issues. We fix all of them before a Repli-Tub goes out the door:
4. Every Hole Drilled to the Correct Size
Once the tub is right-side up, we go through every hole on the firewall, floor, and body panels, drilling each one to spec and threading the ones that need it. This is not a generic checklist. It varies by model, year, and the options you tell us your Jeep is equipped with.
Common firewall and floor work includes:
• Gas pedal, brake pedal, clutch pedal holes oval-shaped on models where originals were oval
• Steering column hole and welded thread inserts
• Brake booster, master cylinder, and wire harness pass-through holes
• Heater box mounting holes, heater hose openings, and heater motor hole
• Throttle cable dimple and square hole (where applicable)
• Speedometer cable, emergency brake cable, and heater cable holes
• Transmission and transfer case shifter holes
• Fuel tank line and drain holes positioned for the correct tank location for that year
We also install welded nuts, captured nuts, and threaded inserts in all locations that call for them, battery tray mounts, roll bar mounts, windshield hinge pivots, tailgate hinge captive nuts, fender mounts, and more.
Hydraulic clutch master cylinder knockout: shipped closed on models that don’t require it. Tell us at order time if you’re running a hydraulic clutch, and we’ll drill it before it ships.
5. Engine and Configuration Options Handled at Order Time
A Jeep restoration isn’t one-size-fits-all, and neither is a Repli-Tub. Before your tub ships, we’ll ask you about the specific configuration of your Jeep. What gets drilled, where, and at what size depends on your answers.
Some examples of what changes based on your build.
6. Test Fitting Before It Leaves the Shop
Drilling a hole is one thing. Confirming clearance is another. Before any Repli-Tub ships, we run through a series of physical test fits:
• Original gas tank test fit to verify line and drain hole alignment and proper clearance
• Tailgate test fit with hinges cleaned and sized to correct original dimensions, gaps and clearances confirmed, no further adjustment needed at your end
• Toolbox lid fit check on all flat fender models. Lid must open and close without contact points
• Gauge hole fitment on flat fender models, all five gauge holes plus key switch resized as needed so an original gauge drops in cleanly
• Fuel tank strap brackets welded in at center body and side panel on applicable models
If you’re purchasing a tailgate with your Repli-Tub, it’s test-fit to your specific tub before shipping. If not, we use a dedicated test tailgate in-house. Either way, it’s been confirmed before it leaves.
7. US-Assembled CJ7 and YJ: Built From Scratch in Pennsylvania
Our CJ7 and Wrangler YJ Repli-Tubs go through a different build process entirely. These are not Philippine bodies we modify; they are assembled from the ground up in our Scranton, PA facility using precision stampings that meet or exceed original factory standards.
Assembly combines MIG welding, laser welding, spot welding, and panel adhesive. Every feature on a CJ7 or YJ Repli-Tub is built in rather than added after the fact:
• Roll bar mounts on both the waterfall piece and the wheel tub
• Extended floor opening
• Fender flare holes installed
• Rear tire carrier swing-out provisions
• Tailgate cable mounts and captured nuts for tailgate hinges
• Hard top holes in side panels
• All cage nuts in correct OEM locations. Fitment guaranteed to an original, unmodified CJ7 or YJ chassis
• Toe boards, original bracing, crossmembers, and splash shields with roll bar baffles
The result is a tub where the fit is guaranteed, not because we modified an import, but because we controlled every dimension from the first weld.
What This Means For Your Restoration
You’re not buying a raw stamping. You’re buying a tub that has been through our shop: drilled, fitted, corrected, and confirmed. Here’s what that translates to on your end:
• Bolts to an original unmodified chassis — no slotting, no shimming, no surprises
• Hardware that stays tight — crush sleeves eliminate the loosening hat channel bolts that plague other tubs
• No rework for Philippine body errors — we’ve already corrected them
• Holes sized for your specific engine and configuration, not a generic template
• Tailgate and gas tank clearances confirmed before it ships, not discovered when you’re trying to install them
FAQs
Do I need to drill any additional holes when my Repli-Tub arrives?
Generally, no. All standard holes for your model are drilled and sized before the tub ships. The one exception is the hydraulic clutch master cylinder knockout, which ships closed by default. If you’re running a hydraulic clutch, let us know at order time, and we’ll drill it for you.
What’s wrong with Philippine-made Jeep bodies?
Philippine bodies have consistent fitment issues that are well known to experienced Jeep restorers: incorrectly located shifter holes, clutch pedal interference with the hat channel, mislocated wire harness holes, and firewall configurations that don’t match the US models they’re meant to replicate. We correct every one of these before a Repli-Tub ships.
What are crush sleeves, and why do they matter?
The hat channels on a Jeep floor are filled with wood. Over time, that wood shrinks, and the mounting bolts loosen. It happens on original bodies and on any replacement tub that doesn’t address it. Our crush sleeves are welded into each hat channel hole and carry the clamping load directly, so the bolts stay tight no matter how hard you torque them.
Do I need to tell you anything before I order?
Yes, and it matters. What engine is in your Jeep, whether you’re running a hydraulic clutch, whether you have air conditioning, what fuel tank configuration your year uses, all of these affect which holes we drill and where. We’ll walk through it with you when you call or reach out. That conversation is what makes the tub fit correctly.
Does the CJ7 process apply to the YJ Repli-Tub?
Yes. Both the CJ7 and YJ Repli-Tubs are assembled in our Pennsylvania shop from scratch, and the build process is nearly identical. Both are built to bolt to an original, unmodified chassis for their respective models.
Will my tailgate fit without adjustment?
Yes. Every Repli-Tub is test-fit with a tailgate before it ships, either the one you purchased from us or a dedicated test tailgate we keep in-house. Hinges are cleaned and sized to correct original dimensions. If you order a tailgate with your tub, it’s pre-adjusted specifically to your tub in our shop.
Ready To Order Your Repli-Tub?
Give us a call, and we’ll walk through your Jeep’s configuration, answer any questions, and get you on the schedule. Every tub is built specifically for your order.